preserved florals and fruit resin coasters

Ensure the room is between 70°-73°F [21°-23°C]. The resin may not cure properly, or cure at all, if the room is too cold; it will cure too fast if the room is too warm.
TIP: Immerse the resin bottle in a warm water bath 10-20 mins before the start of the project. The resin will be easier to work with and less prone to forming bubbles.

Prep your well-ventilated workspace with a silicone mat. Place the mould and resin tools on top of the mat.
TIP: Underneath the silicone mats, cover your entire work area with wax paper. Just like silicone, cured resin peels right off wax paper.​

Get organised! Set up three mixing cups, three mixing sticks, and take part A and B bottles out of the box. Set aside the included tiny mixing cups from the resin kit for now.
TIP: Label the caps of part A and part B with their respective letters. Label two mixing cups and two wooden sticks with “A” and “B” as well.

Make sure to wear nitrile gloves and a NIOSH-approved respirator at all times during the making of the project.

Pour equal parts A and B into separate cups.
TIP: For the first layer, you will need 2 oz. [0.05 kg] in each cup. Measurements must be as accurate as possible, if they are not equal, the project will not cure properly.

Pour the contents of the part A cup into a third cup. Use the stick labelled “A” to get all sides of the cup and make sure the entire amount of A is poured into the third cup.

Pour the contents of the part B cup into the third cup that now has part A. Use the stick labelled “B” to get all sides of the cup and make sure the entire amount of B is poured into the third cup.

Using a clean wooden stick, slowly mix parts A and B together. Mix for at least 5-7 minutes, or until the mixture is completely clear and streak-free.
TIP: Keep your wooden stick grounded to the bottom of the cup while you mix. Mixing in the “air” will cause more air bubbles to form and may not incorporate parts A and B entirely.

While mixing, occasionally scrape the sides of the cup with the wooden stick. Then continue mixing. This ensures that parts A and B are completely incorporated together.

Once the resin is clear and streak-free, scrape the sides again and continue mixing for 1 minute for good measure.
TIP: Let the cup with the mixed resin sit for 2-4 minutes. This allows bubbles to rise to the surface, which can be popped quickly with your heat gun before pouring.

This begins your 40-minute work time. Slowly and gently pour the resin into each mould cavity, enough to cover the surface of the mould and fill less than halfway. Do not use the entire contents of the cup of mixed resin.

Using the flat silicone tool, spread the resin around the mould to ensure it is covering the entire bottom surface of each coaster shape and successfully gets into each curved groove. If any parts of the mould are not covered, add more drops of resin until there is an even layer of resin on the bottom of the moulds.

Using your heat gun, pop any bubbles that are visible in this first layer of resin. Hold the heat gun at least 6" [15.2 cm] above your project. Turn on the lowest setting and sweep heat on your project until most bubbles are gone.
TIP: Don’t use the heat gun too long. Some tinier bubbles also pop on their own. The longer or higher the heat that is applied to your project, the faster the resin cures, which will shorten your work time for adding flowers and fruit.

Place pressed flowers, dried orange slices and dried apple slices into your moulds, in any order, to your heart’s desire face down into the mould. You are working backward - the first layer of fillers you place in the resin will be most visible. The “bottom” of the mould during this step will be flipped around to become the top surface of the coaster intended for a beverage.
TIP: Dried flowers are fragile, so in lieu of your fingers, use your tweezers to pick up flowers and petals so they do not fall apart.

To place fruit slices into your project, completely immerse the slices, one at a time, in the leftover resin in the third cup. Fish them out with a craft stick, and in one quick motion, place them into the mould directly from the cup.

As soon as you place the fruit slice in the mould, hold it down with your craft stick. Using your other hand, pop any excess bubbles with your heat gun for a few seconds. Dried fruit is porous, and trapped air will cause new bubbles to float in the resin.

Repeat Steps 15-16 for every fruit slice you wish to use. Not all fruit slices will stay perfectly flat. This is typical when using dried fruit and will be taken care of during a later step.
TIP: The longer you work on your designs, the stickier the resin will get and will be more difficult to work with as it begins to partially cure. At this point, evaluate last decisions on your designs, and prepare to come to a stop soon.

Once finished with your first layer, wait 4-6 hours.

Now, clean up the flowers that are set in the first layer by gently snipping off any excess strands or petals that stick above the top of the mould. Leave the fruit as-is.

Repeat Steps 1-13. Fill resin only to the top of the mould and covering all parts of flowers and fruit. Some fruit will not be completely immersed in resin, so ensure there is at least a thin layer of resin spread on the top of the fruit as a seal.
TIP: Save materials by using the same part A and B cups and sticks as before. Use a new third cup to mix contents together.

Wait 24 hours. This allows your project to cure and for both layers to permanently bond.

Read the 'Safety Data Sheet' included with resin for proper disposal of your resin containers and materials when cleaning up your workspace.
TIP: Never dispose of uncured resin in the trash, pour it down the drain, or put your resin materials in the dishwasher.

After 24 hours, de-mould your creations! Gently pop them out of the mould and immediately set them aside, out of direct sunlight.
TIP: Do not handle the pieces too much. At this stage, they are only partially cured and are very prone to scratching, fingerprints, and possible unwanted damage.

Wait additional 48 hours to allow your project to reach full cure.

Once the project has reached 72-hour full cure time, it is ready for sanding and cleaning up all edges. Use an X-ACTO® knife to gently smooth the edges of each coaster by gliding the blade against the edges to chip away any excess resin bits. Take your time, move as slowly and gently as possible, especially with a brand new blade. It is not necessary to do this step for larger pieces of resin that may be on the coaster’s edges.
TIP: Wrap your dominant thumb in a bandage before cleaning up your pieces. This gives your finger enough padding so the X-ACTO® knife does not come in contact with your skin.

Review rotary tool instructions and attach the accessory with the toughest grit of sandpaper to the rotary tool.

Turning the rotary tool on its lowest setting, gently sand down any excess resin that is attached to the edges. Gradually move up in speed if needed.
TIP: Don’t sand near your silicone mat! Keep the mat in a safe, clean place while sanding. Sanding outside is also helpful.

Once the edges are clean, move to the bottom of the coaster, where orange slices, apple slices or flowers may be protruding out of the resin. Start on the lowest setting of the rotary tool to sand down these pieces. If needed, move up to the next speed.

Continue to sand down any parts of the bottom of the coaster that does not allow the coaster to lay flat. Be sure to avoid the other side of the coaster. This is the smooth surface that was face down in the mould. This side will soon be holding a beverage and does not need any sanding.

Sand the bottom of the coaster as much as needed until it lays flat.
TIP: It’s okay to make marks on any part of the bottom of the coaster and is encouraged, to ensure it is as flat as possible.

Clean each coaster with a damp cloth and clean up your workspace of dust and particles. Each coaster and workspace should be completely clean before proceeding to the next step.

Flip your silicone mat around so that you are working on a completely clean space. Place each coaster face down on the mat, so that the sanded surfaces are face up. The smooth, top of the coaster needs to be completely clean for this next step.

Adorn all resin safety gear. Peel off any cured resin from the silicone brush.

Using the mini cups from the resin kit, pour equal parts A and B into separate cups. Do not pour over 15 oz. each [0.04 kg].

Pour parts A and B into the third mini-up.

Slowly mix both parts until the resin is completely clear and streak-free. Scrape the sides to ensure that A and B are thoroughly incorporated.

Dip the end of the silicone brush into the mixed resin.

Slowly and gently spread the brush over the surface of the coaster. The sanded marks will disappear as they come in contact with the resin.

Continue to glide brush over the entire surface of the coaster, spreading the resin to the edges. Continue to dip the silicone brush in resin if more is needed, however, be sure not to add too much resin. If too much is added, it will pour over the sides and seep under the coaster, causing imperfections to the side that will hold a beverage.

To clean up any sanded marks on the sides of the coasters, gently dab the brush where needed. No need to add resin. Whatever is left on the brush will do. Again, adding too much will seep under the coaster.
TIP: Wear a brand new glove and pick up your coaster to dab at these edges. This will help to do a more precise job. Before setting the coaster back down, make sure the mat is completely clean and dry.

Once you are satisfied with the resin on the coaster surfaces, let sit for 72 hours, out of direct sunlight, for this layer to reach full cure.

Once coasters have reached full cure, gently sand the bottom edge with a sheet of 150 grit sandpaper. This will make sure all edges are smooth and safe for use.

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